Last weekend though, very good became extraordinary. On a Gastronomy tour of Vaajma (the very Northern part of Jämtland and over the border to Norway), our senses were pleasured by so many experiences that we’d not expected from this region before moving here. And at the centre of the weekend? Food and travel, the way to my heart.
There’s too much to write about in one blog, so here’s the top 7 list from the tour. You can also watch a short film produced by one of the other participants. Spot me and Erik?
1. Authentic food artisans – It’s partly thanks to the dedication and
determination of over 150 local food artisans that Jämtland has become such an
organic food paradise. The region has the largest number of organic food
producers in Europe and Östersund is a UNESCO appointed “Creative City of
Gastronomy.” We visited a sausage and charcuterie maker in the mountains,
a dairy in the dales, and a sheep & egg farm in Fyrås that we have driven past hundreds
of times and never knew existed.
2. Mouth-watering meat – With apologies to my vegetarian sister and
friends – the meat on this tour is worth its own bullet point. On the menu - organic
lamb cooked in red wine sauce, reindeer baked in the ground over hot stones for
5 hours, goat filet served with goat cheese sauce, beaver stew, deer &
moose sausage... Super tasty and protein-tastic.
3. Beautiful beer – Jämtland has 8 micro-breweries. We visited
one of them in the Frostviken mountains in Jorm. We tasted Jorm’s Stout,
Winter Ale and the Wedding Ale that the brewer had lovingly produced especially
for his own wedding. On day two we went over the border to Nordli, Norway. Nestled
into a small mountain village was a pub with over 400 beers from around the
world. After a swift hour and 10 beers tasted - together with
food-pairing - it’s a wonder we managed to walk to the coach without falling on
the newly fallen snow.
4. Entrepreneurial spirit – The get-up-and-go attitudes of the people involved
in this weekend is truly inspiring. Manne our tour guide started his food tourism business to promote the region. Fia Gulriksson in whose local, organic restaurant we assembled and ate breakfast is Jämtland’s food
ambassador. The Sami lady who made us lunch also runs a small, cultural events and catering business and promotes the region of Vaajma. The waitress who
served us at the wild food buffet also runs her own shop. The beer brewing couple
(whose 5 year plan is “to survive and have fun”) offering horse-riding trips in
the mountains with a great place to stay. These are people that take
responsibility for making things happen around them.
5. Culinary & cultural history – How did the dairy industry die and get
rejuvenated with the help of the French? How did the local produce market spur the
growth of Östersund in the 1700's? How did a TV shop become a praline haven? How is beer
made? How do the Sami people use their special relationship with nature to
create such delicious dishes? Manne shared his knowledge on all this and more.
6. Breath-taking scenery – OK so we knew about this before we moved
here but we were reminded of it during the weekend. Countryside vistas, picturesque
villages, the dramatic mountains of Trondelag, the gentle mountains of
Jämtland, grey-blue mirror lakes. The culinary transits were as enjoyable as
the events.
7. Charismatic accommodation – Overnighting in a brewery is a dream for a
beer fan, and that’s what we did in Jorm at Korpens Öga. Throw in a dining room with a circular
open fire, rooms overlooking a snow-dusted valley and lake, and wonderful warm
hosts and you have the perfect place. Night two’s lodgings were equally
delightful. We stayed in a beautifully converted farm, with a rustic communal
dining room, a music room, another warm host with a story to tell and cottages
next to another idyllic mountain lake. It was the perfect way to rest.
More from the tour – I have to
give a special mention to…
- Great company – to the group of ten other foodies, thanks for being such fun.
- Choc ‘n’ roll – the praline man who made guitars out of cigar boxes, I shall bring all visitors to you.
- Wild-food buffet, with music and dance – 100’s of local delicacies in one place and a singing chef.
- Snow – The season’s first snow made it all just that extra bit sparkly.
- Jokke the coach driver – We travelled in high comfort in a coach with wi-fi and full presentation equipment on board. But most impressive was Jokke the driver who put our safety first and shipped us carefully on the snowy roads.
I have fallen even
deeper in love with this part of the world. The next time you come to Sweden,
take a diversion north of Stockholm. Whether you like wild, natural foods,
drinking local beers, skiing, mountains, panoramic views, or just fresh air and
peace and quiet, you won’t regret it.
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